Tools/Materials in order of typical use:
Mild Shampoo: An excellent mild shampoo is Orvus WA Paste (Proctor and Gamble). This soap can be obtained from your local
vet as it is an animal shampoo. It lathers very well and will not stain paint or interior materials. The soap is also known
as Sodium Lauryl Sulphate.
Degreaser: Wax and grease remover. Any product similar to 4105S Dupont Wash n Wipe
Sand Paper: Used for colour sanding, 800, 1500 and 2000 grit paper will normally be used.
Nib File: Small fine file used to remove dust flakes from a paint job, used prior to colour sanding.
Abrasive: Many products available, example used: Meguiar’s Fine-Cut Cleaner #2, Medium-Cut Cleaner #1 and Heavy-Cut
Cleaner #4. Can be applied by hand or with a power polisher.
Glaze: Many products available, example used: Meguiar’s Machine Glaze #3 and Show Car Glaze #7 (hand use only).
Wax: Many products available, example used: Meguiar’s Yelow Wax #26
Step 1 Wash off dirt: The first step is to gently wash your vehicle, rinse with water first to ensure lots of water
is available to lubricate the washing process. Then hand wash with mild soap to remove all surface dirt, finally rinse with
clean water and dry with a shami.
Step 2 Remove wax and grease: Next all the old wax and grease need to be removed. Make sure you wear rubber gloves;
wipe down a small patch and then immediately wipe off any excess.
Step 3 Abrasive smoothing: Application of abrasives in decreasing coarseness: include 800 and finer sandpaper and
abrasive compounds that come in different cuts from course to fine. If you have a new paint job where you just want
to remove some orange peel start with 1500 sandpaper, if you have a clear coat where you want to remove some swirl skip this
step and begin glazing.
Colour Sanding: This technique is done to remove an orange peal finish or any roughness of severe fading from a
paint's surface. Colour sanding can bring a super smooth glossy finish to even the roughest paint job. Colour sanding is basically
fine sanding your paint and then slowly using finer and finer abrasive compounds to bring a super glossy car show finish.
Colour sanding will typically only remove 1/4 of 1 coat of paint or clear coat. Generally it can be done on any vehicle especially
if done by hand. Colour sanding basically removes atomized droplets from the surface of the paint. Always use as sanding
block as much as possible. This technique will work on all hardened enamels and laquer based paints. Typically wait at least
3 weeks prior to colour sanding. For clear coats wait at least a week before colour sanding. When colour sanding, sand in
the direction that you will normally look at the surface i.e. down the hood and across the roof. For rough surfaces start
with 800 paper and then move to 1500 and then to 2000 sandpaper. For normal surface start with 1500 paper. Sand until the
surface has a uniform dull finish, if you see any shiny pits you need to keep sanding. Always use lots of water when colour
sanding. Colour sanding a car should take all day but won’t require a lot of sand paper. Make sure your paper
is always clean and well lubricated with water. If paint keeps plugging your paper, either you are not using enough water
or the paint is not dry enough.
Removing runs and dust flecks: To remove a run the paint must be totally dry, this will take several weeks if the
run is very thick. After the paint is thoroughly dry take a razor blade and scrape out the run. Scrape the surface until it
is perfectly flat and you can see no shiny "valleys". Dust flakes can be removed with a nib file. After the razor blade and
file work is done then wet sand the area as in normal colour sanding.
Abrasive Compound: After you have completed using sandpaper (used for rough surfaces only) you then rub the surface
with progressively finer rubbing compounds. Start with a medium or course compound and then end with a fine compound. This
can be done by hand but is much faster using a power polisher with a wool pad. If a power polisher is used is it very
easy to burn the paint, so to avoid burning the paint always keep the polisher moving in a circular fashion, using a
foal pad is slower but produces less heat. Ensure your polisher operates at a slow RPM, typically no more than 2800 RPM, your
grinder should not be used for this work! Remember a lot of compound is not needed. When using the power polisher never work
on a crease line or near an edge always do these areas by hand. It is wise to use masking tape to cover edge areas so you
do not rub though the paint (if using Meguire products use #4, #1 and then #2).
Step 4 Glazing: Once you are done with the abrasives the paint surface should be noticeably smoother and shiner
than before. The next step is called glazing and fills in the fine marks/scratches you can see in the surface after the abrasive
work is done. Glazing is similar to the abrasive work as there are different grit resins that are used from heavy to fine,
the only differences are that the foam pad should be used with a power polisher and that the last resin must be done by hand
to get the show car finish. Glazing is the process that will remove swirl marks seen in clear coat finish (if using Meguire
products use glaze with #3 then #7).
Step 5 Waxing: Once you are done glazing you have the final super finish, but the raw paint surface is exposed and
will oxidize. Now it is time to protect the paint with wax. Apply wax by had or with a power polisher. (If using Meguire products
use #26). A trick to removing the dried polish is to apply some corn starch to your rubbing rag.
